Gigi's at The G Hotel

Restaurant %

That gnomic initial is the clue to the style - a Force 10 postmodern experience hotel with interiors by avant-garde milliner Philip Treacy. Gendered lounges are in blue for boys, and screaming pink with black-and-white concentric circles for girls. Hard reflective surfaces are offset by pillbox views of the wild western coast, while Gigi's restaurant is done in full-throttle collisions of purple and pink, leafy green and sky blue, and then some. You might think Pauline Reilly's contemporary Irish brasserie cooking would struggle to keep up, but there's plenty of vivacity here too, from laden sharing boards of charcuterie or seafood, or starters such as king scallops with smoked bacon and caper noisette, to outstanding main-course proteins like Wexford beef ribeye with oxtail cannelloni, or roast sea bass in clam and mussel broth with saffron whipped potatoes. Sign up for Dinner and A Movie, and as soon as you've finished your cookies-and-cream cheesecake with winter berry and star-anise compôte, you can glide through to the EYE cinema for a 3-D treat.